Şiş kebap - Towards a dissertation on Kabab

In the summer of 1980 I holidayed on the Greek Island of Spetses. There, on the terrace of a 'village room', I spent several late afternoons in fits of giggles as a result of reading 'Dissertation sur le ou la Keftedes ...' a serious but hilarious essay by Daniel Spoerri - a late Fluxus artist best known for his 'Snare Pictures' or 'picture traps' - many involving food, eating and evidence left behind by gatherings of his friends. (Picture: Wikimedia Commons). His work is also in the Tate

Originhally written in 1970 Spoerri's essay tracks the meatball around Europe, the Balkans and the Mediterranean drawing out the differences and similarities as well as the cultural meaning of the meatball whilst recounting meals with friends and the recipes used.

Over the years I've eaten various Kebabs (کباب) in locations spanning Essoueria in the West to Muscat in the East and from Istanbul in the North to Jeddah in the South and collected recipes and notes along the way. I have often been tempted to undertake a similar study to Spoerri's but concerning the Kebab. But not tonight! I need to make the meshoui... عملنا حفل شواء اليوم

As the heatwave continues we need to keep it simple. Tonight's fare - şiş kebap - would be as at home on an Anatolian beach, a Bospherous Yali, a south London garden or on an allotment in East London bordered by the River Lea. I take my marinade from Sam & Sam Clarkes' third Moro book - Moro East
.

2 Garlic Cloves crushed
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1 tspn sweet paprika
2 tspn cumin seeds roughly ground
2 tspn coriander seeds roughly ground
Big pinch of Saffron soaked
3 tblspn fresh coriander - roughly chopped
150g whole Greek yoghurt
2 tblspn finely grated onion
Fresh black pepper ground

The Clarkes would use cubed leg but, as we are three, even half a leg is too much. I'm using neck fillet of Welsh Lamb from Waitrose. This is OK but not top knotch. Whizz all the marinade ingredients in the Magimix, cube the lamb and leave it in the marinade at room temperature for at least 2 hours. (Make sure the meat is at room temperature before it is grilled). Grill quickly so that the meat is slightly charred on the outside and still quite rare within.

We serve our şiş with grilled peppers, flat bread, more yoghurt - flavoured with garlic and salt, a pile of fresh mint chopped finely and a salad of whatever is fresh.